HardwareZone's HDTV Buying Guide Essentials

Deciding on the Right Screen

Need help with your next TV purchase? Truth is, television tech is evolving faster than you can say Moore's Law. Yes, gone are the days where a telly is essentially a telly and nothing more. Apart from skinnier iterations, newer flat-screen displays are also equipped with a multiplex of features such as embedded entertainment platforms and multimedia playback. Recent insertions of LED-backlit LCDs and 3D TVs have widened the HDTV spectrum as well. To add to the confusion, modern televisions are similarly plagued by a barrage of acronyms. What have we? HD-Ready, Full-HD, LCD, LED, 3D, WiFi, and not forgetting DLNA. Indeed, such specifications can be rather daunting to the uninitiated.

This is where our HDTV Buying Guide Basics come in - to prepare you for your next HDTV purchase, and to shed some light on those mystifying jargons. Before you grab that huge plasma screen priced at an alluring $999, why not spend a moment to peruse our guide first? We congratulate you on your AV wisdom if you're already a self-professed HDTV guru. However, if you know next to nothing about televisions, then this article is for you. There are various aspects to consider, such as the ideal TV size, the benefits or disadvantages associated with different TV technologies, and the features to look out for, before taking the plunge. Once equipped with the right knowledge, you'd have little reason to fear that shady telly salesman bent on confounding you. 

Bottom line is, YOU make the buying decision. So, hit the Next button or the jumps below to begin your educational quest.

- Standard-Definition Versus High-Definition

- 720p Versus 1080p

- LCD Versus Plasma

- Recent HDTV Trends

- Specs that You Need to be Aware Of

- Video Inputs on an HDTV

- Things to Look Out for at the Shop front

- Installation Considerations & Picture Settings Tweaks

Differences between Standard & High-Definition Televisions

Standard-definition televisions (SDTVs), like the bulky old CRTs for example, are able to display up to 480 or 576 lines of interlaced video depending on the source. An interlaced scan consists of two fields, made up of odd and even lines. For instance, an SDTV scans a PAL signal (a video signal standard in this region) at 25 frames per second - with each frame consisting of odd and even fields, resulting in 50 fields per second. Many terrestrial programs are broadcast in such SDTV formats, like Channel 5 and 8 from MediaCorp. However, interlaced displays are prone to flickering or "shimmering" issues due to the alternating fields.

Modern digital TVs, on the other hand, would convert the interlaced signal (a process called de-interlacing) to a smoother progressive format. A progressive scan has the lines "painted" in one at a time in sequential order, instead of alternating between odd and even lines. As such, we've 50 frames per second, instead of 25. In layman's parlance, progressive scans refresh the image in "full", while interlaced ones have frames which alternate between two fields. As a result, a progressive scan is able to give you a sharper and smoother image, especially noticeable in sports and fast-action movies.

Also, high-definition televisions (HDTVs) can display resolutions of up to 1080 lines, compared to an SDTV's limitation of 576 lines. Furthermore, most HD tellies also feature the 16:9 widescreen aspect, instead of the boxy, traditional 4:3. In fact, HDTVs only come in 16:9 widescreen format, whereas SDTVs can come in either the 4:3 or 16:9. Also, note that HDTVs are fixed displays. Depending on the picture, a HDTV would either scale up or scale down the image size to suit its native resolution.

What Do the Stickers Signify?

Generally, there are two primary types of HDTV panels available for retail in the local consumer market: HD-Ready and Full-HD. The two descriptions might sound similar but they're actually quite different in terms of picture resolution. Acquaint yourself with them here: 

High-Definition Content - How to Get Them

There are various ways to tap into HD sources. However, not all of them are necessarily legitimate. Apart from the various outlets mentioned below (which are perfectly legal by the way, provided you pay your bills), some of the more recent and premium television sets also come with widgets which allows you to view HD streams online, such as YouTube. Many such TVs are currently termed as Smart TVs.

Terrestrial & Cable HD: By 'terrestrial', we're referring to free-to-air analog TV transmissions. With digital terrestrial HD broadcasts, however, it's best to get a TV with a built-in digital (DVB-T) tuner plus an integrated MPEG-4 AVC decoder function. A digital TV antenna is required as well. There are other workarounds, such as obtaining a DVB-T set-top box if your TV lacks the tuner.

To 720p or to 1080p, That’s the Question

In the previous page, we covered the basic differences between standard-definition (SD) and high-definition (HD) TVs, namely the latter’s ability to do progressive formats and higher resolutions. In between these two, there’s actually another format known as Enhanced Definition TV (EDTV) that does progressive but retains the resolution of the SDTV format.

The single most common question we’ve heard from people buying an HDTV is whether they should get an HD-Ready set or a Full-HD one. In other words, 720p or 1080p. To recap, a 720p HDTV has a resolution of 1280 pixels (horizontally) by 720 lines (vertically), while a 1080p one has 1920 pixels by 1080 lines. There’s also a 1080i HDTV format that’s essentially the same as 1080p (in terms of resolution), except that it only does interlaced scan.

Before 1080p HDTVs were readily available (and that was just a few years ago), the priciest and highest-end HDTV sets were those that supported 1080i. Today, we can hardly find 1080i-only HDTVs. The current crop of HDTVs has a native resolution of either 720p or 1080p. A 720p HDTV is capable of accepting 1080i signals and displaying them by down-converting the image, while a 1080p HDTV is also capable of taking that same 1080i signals and display them in progressive form without loss of resolution, through a technique known as de-interlacing.

So back to the question: “Which is better – 720p or 1080p?”

Content Matters

Without question, a 1080p HDTV has a higher resolution than a 720p one. To be exact, it has 2.25 times the number of pixels (2,073,600 vs. 921,600). Just like a digital camera with a higher megapixel sensor that captures and shows more details, a 1080p HDTV is able to show much more details than a 720p version. Of course, that’s assuming you have the content to match. Unfortunately, 1080p content is hard to come by apart from Blu-ray discs. Connecting a PC to the TV is another possibility, but it’s certainly not the use case for most people. And let’s not even talk about DVDs – they belong to an era known as standard-definition. However, it's likely that SD content might appear ugly on a 1080p set - it’s akin to over-enlarging a low-resolution photo, with tons of imperfections.

The above being said, if you envision watching a lot of Blu-ray titles, then of course, a 1080p set makes sense. On the other hand, most HDTV broadcasts are done in either 720p or 1080i. The main reason is the high bandwidth requirements for 1080p content. For 720p signals, the TV would up-convert them to the screen’s native resolution (if you've a 1080p TV). As stated above, while no up-conversion is necessary for 1080i signals, another process known as de-interlacing (converting interlaced signals to non-interlaced form) needs to be done. Let’s just say that not all HDTVs can do de-interlacing well.

Image Size & Viewing Distance

Let’s revisit the digital camera analogy. Say you’re deliberating between a 12MP camera and a 6MP model. You know the former gives you more and sharper details, but you also know that you print all your photos in tiny name card sizes. Do you then really need the 12MP camera?

The above analogy can also be applied to HDTVs as well. On smaller screen sizes, we’d say that the resolution advantage a 1080p HDTV has over a 720p set is negligible. And when we say “small”, we mean anything below 40 inches. To really take advantage of 1080p, we recommend at least a 47-incher. But as with all maturing technologies, even native 1080p, 32-inch LCD HDTVs are going at very attractive prices. In fact, we predict that in a couple of years, there'd no longer be any debate between 720p and 1080p HDTVs, since all HDTVs would be at least 1080p by then.

To throw another spanner in the works, you should also factor in viewing distance. Generally, the closer you sit to the TV, the more details you see. Also, the sense of presence is amplified. Conversely, to see the same amount of details at a further distance, you’ll need a larger TV. Many TV buyers made the mistake of not considering the relationship between screen size and viewing distance. Some bought a huge TV to put in small living room (imagine sitting a mere meter away from a 60-inch TV), while some placed their 32-inch TV five meters from their couch. That’s similar to attempting to discern the details on a 4R-sized photo positioned ten meters away from you.

So what should  the optimum viewing distance? There are many different methods of calculating optimum viewing distance out there and each has its own merits. For example, THX recommends dividing your screen size (measured diagonally) by 0.84 to achieve the best seat-to-screen distance. For a 52-inch TV, that translates to a viewing distance of about 62 inches (roughly 1.6 meters). Here at HardwareZone.com, we usually start from a distance that’s twice the screen size. For example, if you've a 52-inch TV, try sitting 104 inches (about 2.6 meters) away from it. You can try moving closer by 0.5 meter, or further by 0.5 meter from that mark. Experiment within this range (in this case, 2.1 to 3.1 meters) until you’re happy with what you see on the screen. More importantly, make sure your eyes aren't strained and fatigued after each viewing session.

Placement

For a vertical placement, avoid placing or mounting the TV too high on the console or wall. A straight line of sight is the best, and THX recommends that viewers should not have to look up more than 15°. From a ergonomics point of view, tilting the head upwards is worse than tilting down. Remember, you’ll only realize the full benefit of a 1080p HDTV when you fulfill these three criteria:- True 1080p content, an appropriate screen size to take advantage of the higher resolution, and a viewing distance that allows you to see the added details distinctly and comfortably.

Meet the HDTV Family

So far, we've discussed the various panel resolutions you might encounter on retail shelves. Whilst TVs tend to look alike, the technology that drives them can be very dissimilar. In essence, there are two main HDTV categories – LCD and Plasma – to deliberate between. The LCD category is further split into two sub-types – CCFL and LED – depending on the kind of backlights deployed by that manufacturer and make. Furthermore, each HDTV segment has its own share of pros and cons, so remember to choose the one which tailors to your needs. To keep things simple, here's a brief description of each HDTV segment, and what they offer :- 

LCD with CCFL Backlights

Traditional LCD (Liquid Crystal Display) TVs with CCFL backlights are generally fatter than their more recent LED counterparts. Its deeper girth is attributed to its CCFL (Cold Cathode Fluorescent Lighting) tubes which are generally thicker than LED bulbs. Fundamentally, LCD panels are made up of liquid crystals encased by two glass panes with polarizing filters. These crystals "twist" according to the picture source to allow the appropriate light to pass through. CCFL-based LCDs offer a decent picture quality, and are about 30 to 40 percent cheaper than the LED breeds. Unlike LEDs, however, they lack local dimming capabilities since the light tubes' brightness cannot be individually manipulated, and they're less power efficient as well. Both, CCFL and LED types are prone to backlight bleeds where light seepage is discernible on the panel.

If you're on a shoestring budget, you might want to lean towards the CCFL backlights based TVs since they're inevitably the cheapest of the lot. Take note that on the store shelves, they are commonly referred to as "LCD TVs" while the more expensive cousin is called an "LED TV". The latter is technically wrong since both are LCD TVs but just deploy different backlight types. However for the sake of talking with the less informed people such as the store salesmen, just go with the common lingo.

LCD with LED Backlights

LED-backlit TVs are relatively new to the retail scene having made their entrance only a couple of years ago. The use of LEDs not only improves picture quality as a whole, but it also allows manufacturers to engineer slimmer housings. LED-backlit LCD TVs with direct local dimming features tend to do better than their CCFL-backlit counterparts in aspects such as contrast ratio and black levels.

There are three main LED configurations:-

• Direct-lit
• Edge-lit
• Edge-lit with local dimming

For the direct example, LEDs are mounted directly behind the panel as shown below. Edge-lit types have LEDs lined along the side of the panel frame. The third Edge-lit option offers "pseudo local dimming", so to speak, since it's able to dim or brighten a general cluster with the help of a light guide plate, but it's unable to target specific areas. LED-backlit TVs have the lowest power consumption, compared to LCD (fluorescent) and Plasma TVs.

Plasma Display Panel (PDP)

PDPs rely on charged plasma cells to produce a desired picture. Unlike LCDs, they do not require a light source or backlights. Since each pixel is luminiscent on its own, plasma panels are able to achieve accurate blacks and sharp contrasts without suffering from backlight bleeding issues. In addition, plasmas offer the best viewing angles amongst the three TV types, although LED screens have improved remarkably in this aspect as well. High refresh rates is yet another strength of PDPs, which results in minimal motion blur with fast moving sequences. On the other hand, some of its shortfalls include higher power requirements, possible screen burn-in, and deteriorating luminosity over time. Plasma prices have fallen drastically over time, and they're now pretty much comparable to LCD displays. Take note that very affordable plasma panels are available, but they are often just HD-Ready and not Full HD, so do take caution when buying.

HDTV Trends - What You Should Know

Now that you've gained a fundamental knowledge on the HDTV types, let's move on to the latest buzzwords associated with newfangled television sets. Without a doubt, recent trends such as 3D, LED TVs, USB Playback, and Internet TVs are on everyone's lips. Visit an electronic store, and chances are the salesperson would accost you with such tasty lures. Question is, do you need these added features? Or is a simple yet capable HDTV enough to gratify your AV needs? It's important for you to understand such terms since you don't want to end up buying a $5,000 set when you could have gotten a cheaper alternative without the bells and whistles. Here are the answers to four commonly asked questions:-

1. Is a 3D TV Really Necessary?

Steeper costs, health issues, and a lack of content are some aspects you'll need to mull over before getting one. Generally, a 3D display can be priced up to 200 percent more than a similar set without the 3D features. Most TV manufacturers offer a 3D bundle, which includes a 3D-ready Blu-ray player plus one or two pairs of 3D glasses. Be prepared to fork out a hundred dollars or more for each person if you've larger-sized families. Sony's funky TDG-BR50/L model, for example, will cost you S$149 per pair. By the way, 3D sets aren't limited to LCDS alone for brands such as Panasonic and Samsung also offer 3D iterations on plasma screens as well.

Then there are health risks to consider, such as possible dizziness or nausea spells which follow 3D viewing. Content is also scarce at the moment, with only two 3D movie titles available on SingTel's mio Video-On-Demand services and none on StarHub Cable TV. Of course, you may procure your own 3D Blu-ray titles such as Coraline (2009) or Clash of the Titans (2010); but even so, the 3D Blu-ray list is far from exhaustive at this point in time

2. What's the Fuss About LED-backlit TVs?

LED technologies deployed in HDTVs can be diverse and no less confusing. To make it easy for you, we'll use LG as an example. The Korean TV maker have three LED backlight variations to date – full-array with local dimming (IOL),  integrated optical plate (IOP), and edge-mounted. Local dimming, in essence, is the LED's ability to turn itself off when it isn't needed, such as a dark area of the picture.

Full array, or direct LEDs, are able to produce more uniform blacks and contrast levels compared to edge-mounted types. Reason being they are mounted in a full matrix behind the LCD panel, which enable them to target specific areas instead of general clusters. Segmented types, such as LG's IOP technology, sport many optical plates (see diagram) with edge mounted LEDs around each plate. They provide a more balanced picture and black levels than conventional edge-mounted types, but are less precise with their illumination than the full-array technique.

Traditionally, HDTVs with full array backlights are slightly thicker than edge-mounted types. Although their visual performance might pale in comparison to full arrays, edge-mounted LEDs are most commonly found on retail shelves since they're also cheaper to manufacture. More recently, edge-mounted LEDs are touting "local dimming" features as well, although they aren't as effective as full-array models. 

3. What Exactly is an Internet-enabled TV? 

Simply put, Internet-enabled TVs does what its moniker suggests - it connects you to the Internet. Typically fitted with an Ethernet port, some HDTV models in the market also offer Wi-Fi features as an added perk. Either way, simply connect the HDTV to your home network and you're one with the cloud. Fact is, accessing and streaming web content such as YouTube videos, Picasa pictures, or news and weather reports are no longer a revelation on such HDTV models. And most of them achieve this with the aid of built-in widgets on its Internet platform. Some brands, such as Samsung, even has its own app store which enables you to download apps from. To date, many names have already hopped onto the Internet-enabled bandwagon, including LG, Sony, Panasonic and Toshiba. An Internet-enabled TV comes with a heftier premium than basic models, but it's worth the pinch if you prefer to stream web content directly onto the big screen. 

4. Is There an Alternative Solution to Utilize Apps on Non-Internet-enabled HDTVs?

Yes, there is. Apart from spinning Blu-ray discs, the good news is many recent Blu-ray players are also equipped with Internet and multimedia applications. They enable you to stream or access online videos, pictures and more, like Sony's BRAVIA Internet Video platform for example. Similar to Internet-enabled HDTVs, however, you'll need to connect the BD player to your home Internet network. If the router isn't in the vicinity of your player, it's best to go for a Blu-ray player with Wi-Fi options, integrated or otherwise. Upgrading to a Blu-ray player with access to web content is a more cost-effective measure, compared to say, upgrading the TV just for its app feature. For instance, Sony's BDP-S370 is available at a wallet-friendly price of S$250 or less. You might have to spend hundreds more on a new TV set, depending on the make and size of course.

Basic Specs to Pay Attention To

Hopefully by now, you’d have decided on the type of TV to buy. If so, congratulations - you’re almost ready to step into the store. Of course, no one simply walks into a store and pick up a TV without prior research. You have probably amassed a stockpile of brochures of HDTVs that have caught your eye. And for the Internet-savvy, you'd probably have bookmarked many websites (hopefully, ) to scour for info. Here are some of the common and more important ones to understand and take note of.

Contrast Ratio

Expressed as a ratio, this basically means the number of levels between the blackest black and the whitest white a TV can achieve at the same time. This is an important spec because it can affect image brightness as well as perceived image detail. For example, a contrast ratio of 4000:1 means that the brightness level of the whitest white is 4000 times brighter than the blackest black. Needless to say, a high contrast ratio is more desired over a low one.

Dynamic contrast ratio (DCR) is another popular term on specs sheets. Some marketing literature may even list this instead of the native or static contrast ratio. In essence, what this ratio tells you is the potential of the display in showing the darkest blacks and the brightest whites, but not at the same time. Here's how it works: a TV's processor would analyze the scene and adjust the backlight level accordingly. If the scene is predominately dark, it would lower the backlight level to achieve deeper blacks. Conversely, if it detects an overall bright picture, it would increase the backlight level to render whiter whites. Unfortunately, there’s no standard way of doing dynamic contrast. In fact, how it performs depends on how good the TV processor is able to “guess” what level of backlight to use.

Manufacturers tend to use DCR in their marketing materials since they typically come in staggering numbers. If you see a contrast ratio listed in hundreds of thousands or even millions, it’s likely a dynamic contrast ratio. Check to see if the static contrast ratio is also listed. For instance, a LCD TV with a dynamic contrast ratio of 10,000:1 and 3000:1 static contrast ratio is likely to have better contrast than one with a dynamic contrast ratio of 8,000:1, but this may not be so against a plasma TV that has a 5000:1 static contrast ratio.

One last thing worth mentioning is that contrast ratios are always measured in a controlled environment – in other words, a dark room. To buy a 10,000:1 contrast ratio HDTV is one thing, to take full advantage of it is another. If the area where you’re going to place the TV has a lot of ambient light, then the blacks are going to look like dark grays regardless of how high the contrast ratio is.

 

Brightness

Expressed in candela per square meter (cd/m2), a higher brightness value means a brighter image. Naturally, in a brightly lit room or for outdoor use, a brighter screen is preferred. Most HDTVs for home use these days have brightness between 500 to 1000 cd/m2, and these are more than sufficient. In the last couple of years, the development of LED backlight technology has also led to the creation of brighter displays with lower heat emissions and energy wastage.

While brightness is arguably a less important spec to consider when shopping for a TV these days, it’s worth noting that both brightness and contrast often work hand in hand. A TV with a high luminance but low contrast is going to display a dull and washed-out image. This is made worse if there’s a lot of ambient light. In this case, one is likely to reach for the remote control to dial up the brightness. However, a brightness level that works well for you in broad daylight may not fare so well after the sun sets or when ambient lighting is low. The image may now look way over-exposed, and your eyes may hurt from the glare.

In short, a bright TV is good to have, for the very simple reason that you can dial it down if it’s too bright. The reverse may not be possible sometimes.

 

Refresh Rate

Measured in Hertz (Hz), a display’s refresh rate is the number of times in a second that it draws or rebuilt the screen content. This is not to be confused with frame rate, which measures the number of frames (or images) a video source can feed within a second. For example, films usually have 24 frames per second (fps). This means in that one second of video, there are 24 images, 24 frames.

A 60 Hz TV will take this 24 fps and convert it to 30 fps. Each of the images in this 30 fps is then reconstructed twice (i.e., there’s now 60 images) before displaying on the 60 Hz screen. This process of converting 24 fps to 30 fps is known as 2:3 pull-down. The downside of such a film-to-video transfer, however, is it may result in "jerky" images known as “judder”. The fact of the matter is, it is not possible to always repeat every single frame in a 24 fps film an equal number of times for a 60 Hz display. It’s this inconsistent repetition of frames that’s causing the jerkiness of film-based content on a TV.

The solution lies with a refresh rate that’s a multiple of 24. And also the reason why you’re seeing HDTVs advertising refresh rates of 120 or 240 Hz. Notice that 120 is the least common multiple for both 24 and 30. Indeed, 120 Hz is the lowest refresh rate to do both 24 (film) and 30 fps (NTSC video) content without resorting to 2:3 pull-down, because each frame can be repeated the same number of times. If you have a lot of film-based content, we recommend a 96 Hz display. Get a 120 Hz display if you want the best of both worlds.

The other advantage of such new high refresh rate (120/240 Hz) TVs is that it helps to smooth fast-motion video sequences. To be clear, what we're talking about here is motion blur reduction instead of de-judder processing. This is done by creating extra frames between real content, either by adding black frames or through interpolation. Different manufacturers name this technique differently. For instance, Sony calls theirs Motionflow, LG TruMotion, Samsung Auto Motion Plus, Panasonic Intelligent Frame Creation, Philips HD Digital Natural Motion, and Sharp AquoMotion.

 

Response Time

Expressed in milliseconds (ms), response time is simply how fast a pixel is able to change its state. For example, a response time of 4ms is faster than 12ms. In general, a fast response time is preferred for content with a lot of quick sequences, such as action movies, sports, and first-person shooting games. This is an area where plasma TVs and even CRT TVs traditionally have had an advantage over LCD TVs (and they still do), but this gap has been somewhat reduced in the last couple of years.

Why is response time important? Simply put, a slow response time would result in motion or image blur, especially for fast-motion content as mentioned earlier. “Motion trails” or “ghosting” are common terms used to describe what’s observed on a display with a slow response time. A classic example is when an object (say, a football) becomes fuzzy or has a smearing effect as it moves across the screen. This is because the pixels are still in the middle of changing their states.

Fortunately, most HDTVs with a fast refresh rate also come with a fast response time. At the end of the day, let your own eyes be the judge.

 

Viewing Angle

Viewing angle is the maximum angle at which a display can be viewed without severely degrading visual performance. All TVs look the best when viewed straight-on, and at a height where your eyes can land roughly in the middle of the display. If you’re buying a TV for yourself, viewing angle may not be a major concern for you, because you’re the only one hogging the sweet spot. But if it’s a family TV, you’d need to take into consideration where the rest are going to sit in relation to the TV. Typically, the more you deviate from the sweet spot, the more the visual performance degrades: the image would look less saturated, color shifts would result, and contrast would fall.

Viewing angle is often listed from one direction to another (e.g. left to right) and expressed in degree, such as 178°. Since a TV is only a one-sided display, 180° is the best you can get, though no panel is capable of that. Sometimes, a manufacturer may list the viewing angle for each of the left and right side, such as 89° (0° is measured from the front of the TV).

Video Inputs on an HDTV

Here's a table of common video connections you'd find on a HDTV, the corresponding cable to use, and examples of devices that might use such connections. We suggest you think through the devices that you own currently, the type of connections they have, and envision how they'd connect to your new HDTV. You wouldn't want to realize during the setup process that there are five devices fighting for one HDMI input. As they say, a little bit of planning goes a long way.

Interface	Cable to Use	Device Example	Additional Info
			Compact AV interface for transmission of uncompressed digital data Able to carry HD video and eight channels of uncompressed digital audio on a single cable Currently the high-quality connection on consumer HD products
			Also known as RGB analog component video Mainly for connecting to computers that output video via a 15-pin VGA interface Does not carry audio
			Video signal are split into two or more components Capable of video signals up to 1080p Audio is carried on separate cables
			Carries SD video at 480i or 576i resolution Audio is carried on separate cables Higher image quality than composite video, but lower than component
			Video information on one channel (S-Video carries information on two channels) Single cable with a yellow RCA jack is used typically for video Right and left audio channels carried on separate cables with red and white RCA jacks
			Used for receiving analog and digital terrestrial services over VHF and UHF airwaves RF cables connectors come in two forms: screw-in and push-on

TV connections have come a long way from the days of composite and S-Video connections. Today, HDMI and component video are de-facto standards for feeding HD video to your HDTV, of which only HDMI is a digital connection. The picture quality that these two connections output is far superior to that of composite and S-Video. In light of that, HDMI and component video connections should certainly be present, so make sure that your HDTV has as many of them as possible for future expansion needs. A single HDMI port certainly isn't sufficient these days since you may wish to connect your TV to other consoles.

For now, using a HDMI cable is the easiest way to hook up your TV to AV receivers or set-top players. It's capable of carrying uncompressed digital video and audio signals, so at the most basic level, a single HDMI cable connected to your Blu-ray or DVD player is all you need to start enjoying movies.

Trouble is, some older AV devices do not have an HDMI port. You'll probably find a composite, S-Video or component connections with older DVD or AV systems. This makes setups a little trickier since these connections are only capable of delivering video signals, unlike HDMI which can handle both video and audio. In such cases, you'll need a separate audio connection since the video cables do not carry any audio signals. So it's just more cable clutter to manage. However, if you want to take full advantage of Blu-ray/DVD-encoded multichannel audio, you definitely need to hand off the audio signals to a compatible AV receiver capable of decoding them, and play them back using properly configured surround speakers. For even older AV devices that only have composite or S-Video connections, you should probably think about upgrading them as they're not capable of handling HD video content. Meanwhile, if you can't do without these old devices, make sure the TV you get have these inputs.

5 Tips When You're at the Storefront

By now you would have researched diligently on the various TV technologies; drawn up a budget together with the Minister of Finance in your family; heck, you've even thrown away your Mom's old sofa to make way for the new TV. It's high time to make a trip down to the store and bring that TV home. But wait! Please spare us another five minutes as we highlight a few storefront tips.

1. Bring Your Own Test Material

If you’ve been to an electronics megastore’s TV section, you’d have seen rows and rows of TVs playing back the same video or demo clip, and looping it to no end. To better gauge a TV’s performance in the store, we recommend bringing your own test material. It can be your favorite movie on DVD, or better yet, Blu-ray disc. The store should have a Blu-ray player nearby, so we’d say go ahead and borrow it, and give the movie a spin. Remember to connect the Blu-ray player to the TV using the highest-quality connection available, namely HDMI.

Of course, feel free to bring any content to test in the store, and ideally, any device you foresee connecting to the TV too, be it flash drives, HD camcorders, digital media players, laptops, or even gaming consoles. In essence, if you’re going to evaluate a display, it’s better to do it with material you’re familiar with. Just don’t use animated material: they look good on almost all digital displays.

 

2. Understand the Environment

Before you go about making notes on the real-world performance of the TV, be sure to spend a few minutes understanding the current environment you’re in – or more specifically, the lighting condition at the show floor. Chances are, the show floor is so brightly lit you feel as if you’re in the middle of a football field.

Truth is, it’s easier to mask a TV’s mediocre performance (especially black levels) in such an environment. Don’t be surprised that many of the TVs in the stores have their brightness and contrast levels cranked up. In such an instance, whichever TV shows the brightest and clearest image would be perceived as the “best”. Assuming you’ve read the preceding pages, you should know that this isn’t true. For all you know, that dull-looking display at the corner is the better performing one.

So what does all these mean to you? Well, you could try persuading the sales rep to dim the lights for you, and revert the TV’s settings back to its factory defaults. If that fails, at least be mindful that it might look quite different once you bring it home. If this is unacceptable, your only options are to read up on reviews like our own to shortlist TVs in advance, or move on to another shop that has viewing rooms or its equivalent where lighting can be better controlled.

3. Check the Presets

Most TVs these days come with presets that would dial in appropriate settings for audio and video depending on the lighting conditions and the type of content being watched. You’d find preset names such as Movie, Game, PC, Dynamic, and 3D. Cycle through these presets while playing back a video to better understand how each would affect the image. Find out if each preset mode is user adjustable.

If you consider yourself to be an advanced user and would like to maximize your display’s performance by tweaking it (either through trial and error or by using a proper calibration tool), it’s good to check if the set provides for any color management system with color and tint controls, and how minute can these adjustments go. Such controls are useful not just for LCD but plasma sets too, as the latter’s color balance can also change with age.

4. It’s All About Motion

Remember earlier we talked about the recent crop of LCD TVs having high refresh rates such as 120/240 Hz, and that these help to smooth fast-motion video sequences? Don’t just believe the hype, it’s wise to let your eyes be the judge. If you’ve film-based content on hand, now it’s time to test the TV’s 24p feature. See if you can spot excessive or artificial frame interpolation. If so, does turning off the TV's motion enhancements help? Remember, results from such picture features can vary from source to source. Conversely,a panel with high refresh rates and fast response time can often solve the issue of motion lag. Luckily, this can be easily tested using gaming or sports footages. Do you notice any trailing shadows, or do details get blurry?

On another note, some people find these fast refresh rates make the movies look unnaturally smooth. Or perhaps you can't tell the difference between a 120Hz and 240Hz model, you're better off not listening to the 'superior' specs talk rattled by the salesperson and buy what you feel is worth your wallet.

 

5. And Colors Too

While you’re at it, check the color reproduction for flesh tones and green foliage. If you’re not happy with a particular skin tone, ask for the remote and see if you can remedy it by altering the color temperature. When you’ve the skin tones adjusted to your liking, check the other colors to see if you’ve screwed those up instead.

A word of caution: never adjust colors based on material that’s gone through artistic color treatments. For example, many scenes in The Matrix have a green tint which were done on purpose. Likewise, you probably recall the blue tint of Minority Report. Getting a "right" flesh tone based on these would certainly give you a weird outcome when you switch to another movie.

Installation Considerations & Picture Settings Tweaks

Planning doesn't stop with your HDTV purchase. For instance, there are other factors to consider such as wall installations and cabling issues before you bring that LCD or Plasma TV home. For aesthetic reasons, wall-mounting the TV is perhaps the best option, although a rack-mounted display can be equally pleasing if done right. Here are some tips to take with you when sourcing for an appropriate HDTV model. We've also prepared a few pointers below on how to quickly tweak the settings on your new TV for a better image.

Wall Installation

Some TV vendors offer complimentary wall brackets and installation services with each HDTV purchase, while others might sell you the brackets at discounted prices. If you prefer to obtain your own, ensure the bracket is designed to carry your TV's weight, and both TV and bracket are compliant with the VESA mounting standard. When considering wall-mounts, there are factors to take note of, such as wall space and the type of bracket used. Essentially, there are two kinds available in the market - fixed and adjustable. The fixed type is recommended if your TV bears a slim profile and is comfortably viewed from where you are seated. For "higher" installations, it's best to obtain adjustable brackets with tilt functions to avoid overstraining your neck and eyeballs. Sometimes, it would be nice to have the TV tilted in a different direction, for example, if you're at your dining table instead of your sofa at the living room. For situations like these, you'll likely need to have a bracket that allows for tilt, swivel and arm extension.

Viewing Height

The rule of thumb is to position the center of the HDTV's screen at eye level to avoid eye and muscle fatigue in your neck. Then again, we all have different preferences for our popcorn moments. Some prefer to tilt their head upwards slightly, whilst others are happier with a little downward tilt. Whichever the case is for you, do take note of your eye level when seated before you finalize the TV's placement. 

Cabling

Unsightly cables aren't an issue if you plan to build a feature wall for your TV. Otherwise, exposed wires can be an eyesore especially with wall installations. The most obvious solution is to slap on a PVC trunking strip to conceal the wires. However, even the most basic trunking job requires some understanding of assembly work. Engage a contractor if you aren't confident with drills and such. Apart from that, be sure to measure the distance between your TV's connectors and AV peripherals as well. The cables (HDMI or otherwise) have to be adequately long enough to cover the distance. The same principle applies to TVs resting on a cabinet too. 

To summarize, comfort is of the utmost importance when ogling at your HDTV. Mount it too high and you'll have to crane your neck. Too low and you might have to slump down or change your furniture. Common sense applies too, of course, such as how you should avoid placing your TV under the sun's rays or restricting the air-flow around the HDTV set. It doesn't take much, but a little planning goes a long way in determining your long-term experience with the goggle box.

Simple Tweaks to Make the Picture Look Better

A couple of thousands of dollars and a few hours of unpacking the TV and reconfiguring the layout of your furniture later, you're ready to enjoy your spanking new HDTV. A few minutes after popping in your favorite movie disc, the wide grin on your face disappeared. Wait, is there something wrong with your new TV? You certainly don't remember it looking like this in the store. Fear not, we've a few tweaks here that you can try.

 

1. Adjust the Presets

Try using the Movie or Cinema presets; and avoid anything that says Vivid or Bright - unless you prefer exaggerated colors and contrast for your images (these probably look better for console gaming). At the very least, find a preset that yield the most pleasing and natural-looking images, and adjust the image parameters (such as brightness and contrast) to taste from there.

2. Dim the Room Lights

What's the ambient light level in the room? For a better viewing experience, you may want to dim the lights or draw the curtains. Also, avoid having any light hitting directly on the display. You'd be surprised how much more details you can see once you turn down the lights.

3. Check the Connections

Before you pull your hair out wondering why your HDTV is performing so poorly, verify again that you've connected everything up properly. Did you mistakenly connect the HD set-top box using composite cables instead of component cables? We know this sounds like common sense, but we've seen this happen before, especially for the less tech-savvy users.

4. Turn Off Motion-Smoothing for Film-based Content

Features such as motion-smoothing and frame interpolation may not be good for film-based content as it rids the film of its distinctive feel. If you spot any non-film-like motion typical of frame interpolation (read: the image looks too smooth), you can try turning off any such motion-smoothing features (but leave it on for other video sources). Of course, this is a moot point if you can't tell the difference.

5. Use the THX Optimizer

Over here at HardwareZone, we use a lot of test material and calibration tools to setup our TVs for testing. But we don't expect most consumers to have these fancy equipment at home. But if you already own some DVD or Blu-ray titles (especially releases that are THX-certified), chances are these discs include something called THX Optimizer. It's a simple to use, on-screen calibration tool for home theater systems. If you're some time on your hands, why not give the disc a spin? If the disc has it, you'd see it in the Setup menu.

Blu-ray Titles for Your Viewing Pleasure

To round off our TV guide, here are some handpicked Blu-ray titles to grace that new HDTV of yours. Besides offering loads of entertainment content, these Full-HD titles are similarly highlighted for their awesome picture quality and impressive sound engineering. From action-packed sequences to animated nostalgia, there's something for everyone in the family here. Best of all, Blu-ray discs are noticeably more affordable now compared to it nascent days, and they also support the 24p film rate as well.

Final Thoughts 

So there you have it! We hope our guide has armed you with the sufficient know-how when shopping for a HDTV. Apart from what we've shared in this article, always remember that it's wiser to trust your judgment rather than be swayed by unscrupulous salesmen or listen to hearsay. Peddlers would love to earn a quick buck, but not necessarily recommend what's best for your visual needs. The equation is simple; always justify your AV requirements and room settings before settling on that HDTV model. And please remember that a bigger screen might not necessarily always be the better option. Good luck, and have fun scouting!

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